Installing vinyl windows is virtually the same procedure as installing windows made of other materials. If you already know how to install a window made of some other material, you can install a vinyl window. If you are in doubt, a reputable professional installer is strongly recommended.

Yes. Vinyl's higher insulating value keeps the inside of the house warmer during winter months, and helps guard against the damaging effects of window condensation.

Double glazed windows are far more effective than single glazed windows, and ALLSCO's Energy-Plus windows go still further: they combine the world's best energy-saving features with world leading vinyl technology. The resulting higher allowable interior humidity level reduces drying of furnishings, and greatly improves the health "comfort level" of your living environment.

Absolutely. ALLSCO makes windows to the exact opening dimensions for all your remodeling needs. You may wish to take advantage of the renovation to change the window style and quality.

On a budget? The best recommendation for renovation strategy is to upgrade one or two facings with efficient quality windows instead of the whole house with lower quality. The energy savings, comfort, and reduced maintenance will pay off. Other facings can be done at another time.

ALLSCO's Vinyl remodeling windows can directly replace virtually any window made from wood, aluminum, or steel. All you need is the size of the window opening and ALLSCO will provide the exact fit... and the installation instructions.

While condensation can be concerning, it helps to know that it is not caused by the window product itself. Condensation happens because of a high humidity content in your house. The humid air carries around water vapour until it meets with a surface that has a temperature lower than the dew point (temperature where the air becomes too saturated and turns into dew). The glass on your windows are typically the coldest part of the house and create a location where moisture can form when the temperature difference is great between the interior and exterior of the window.

Installing replacement windows can actuall increase the occurance of condensation in the house. This is because older windows that were drafty and poorly sealed allowed cool air in and around the glass, keeping the temperature on the interior cooler. When new, tighter energy-efficient replacement windows are installed, the window does not "breathe" as much and the air stays warmer on the interior.

Window condensation is a frustration for homeowners, especially if their windows are new. Immediate thoughts are of mold, water damage, peeling paint and reduced energy savings. To help our customers prevent window condensation, we need to understand why condensation occurs and how to prevent it.

Humidity and Condensation
Condensation occurs when there is a reduction in the rate of air exchange (i.e. closing windows in winter) and there is excess humidity in the home. Humidity is the amount of moisture or water vapour in the air. People and pets produce moisture when they breathe or perspire. Even indoor plants produce moisture. We add water vapour to indoor air through everyday household activities: cooking, showering, bathing and doing laundry. Every time you run the dishwasher, you add 5 lbs of moisture to your home!

We need humidity for our comfort and health. But too much or too little humidity can produce a host of difficulties in homes. Some of the problems are just nuisances like condensation on windows and musty smells, others can be more serious such as wet stains on walls and ceiling, moldy bathrooms and allergic reactions. Humidity hassles often occur during the colder months when windows are closed, and indoor air circulation is reduced.

Humidity Levels
Experts have developed rules of thumb to help homeowners make decisions regarding humidity levels in their homes. The limits should be used as guides only. Acceptable or comfortable humidity levels will vary from season to season, from house to house, and even between rooms in the same house. To measure the indoor humidity in a home, you can purchase a small inexpensive tool called a hygrometer that measures relative humidity (RH). The recommended indoor relative RH when the outdoor temperature is above 10° C is 30 to 50 per cent. When the outdoor temperature is below 10° C, the recommended RH is 30 per cent.

How ALLSCO Windows Help
We use warm edge technology on all our windows and doors, creating an insulated air space between the glass units. Warm edge spacers also keep the edges of your window glass warmer, reducing condensation.

Double and triple glazed windows ensure the humidity inside the room can be higher than a room with ordinary single glazing before condensation occurs. Because the units are sealed at the factory, condensation between the panes of glass does not occur.

Controlling Humidity
The first step of preventing condensation is controlling humidity. Begin with installing new energy-efficient windows with a high performance rating. High-efficiency windows may not solve all condensation concerns, but properly installed, sealed and insulated windows are the first step towards eliminating humidity issues. Although excessive humidity shows up as condensation on the cold surface of a window, the window is probably not the source of the condensation problems.

Further reducing humidity in homes is not difficult. Begin by remembering to open or close doors and windows on a periodic basis to exchange air in the house. Exhaust fans may have to be installed in bathrooms and kitchens, and seal up the house with weather-stripping and caulking. Humidifiers, both stand alone or attached to furnaces, can be sources of excessive moisture and mold, so ensure they are not overused.

Tips to prevent window condensation:

• Install an air exchange unit or a humidity control device to maintain the proper level of humidity
• Insulate water pipes
• Ensure hot air from registers does not flow directly on to the interior surface of the glass
• Turn furnaces with humidifiers off until condensation reduces
• Ensure the exhaust from the clothes dryer is vented outside
• Cover crawl spaces with 0.15 mm (6 mil) polyethylene
• Ensure gutters drain water away from the house
• Avoid drying firewood in the house
• Waterproof damp basement walls and floors
• Use exhaust fans while cooking
• Open a window when doing laundry
• Close the bathroom door and open a window after baths and showers
• Ventilate the home at least once a day

Outdoor Condensation
Condensation on the outdoor surface of an insulating unit is not an indication that the glass or insulating unit is defective. Under the right set of atmospheric conditions it is possible to get condensation on the exterior glass surface of an insulating glass unit. Specifically, the following conditions:

• Glass temperature below dew point temperature
• Clear night sky
• Still Air
• High relative humidity
• Well insulated glazings

Exposed to these conditions, the exterior surface of the glass can radiate heat away to the night sky such that the glass temperature falls below the dew point of the ambient air. When this occurs, moisture from the air condenses on the glass surface. Only when the glass temperature rises above the dew point will the condensation evaporate back into the air. Dew formation on grass, car hoods and roofs, and building roofs and walls is common and accepted as a fact of nature.

The presence of moisture indicates that a specific set atmospheric conditions exist and that the insulating glass is indeed doing its job -- that of insulating the building from the environment. In this case, that insulation capability is what retards the flow of building heat through the glass and prevents warming of the exterior above the dew point.

If exterior condensation occurs on insulating glass, there is little or nothing that can be done to prevent its reoccurrence. Draperies should be open to allow as much heat transfer though the glass as possible. Trees or buildings can block the radiation view to the sky. Shrubbery immediately adjacent to the glass can increase the local humidity and may need to be moved. The exterior surface of the glass will warm and the condensation will evaporate when either the heat loss to the sky is blocked (i.e. clouds), the wind picks up, or sunlight is absorbed on the glass surface.

Yes it does... in ways that may surprise you! 

• Less than half of vinyl's weight comes from natural resources.
• In manufacturing, vinyl windows require only one-third of the energy needed for aluminum windows.
• Unlike other windowing materials, vinyl's durability and low maintenance do not require the use of additional resources such as paints, stains and other materials for upkeep and repair.
• No paint and stain vapor emissions, cleanups or disposal problems.
• Stable and inert vinyl polymer keeps vinyl windows in service for many, many years avoiding premature replacements.
• Vinyl is recyclable. Waste during manufacturing is reintroduced into the manufacturing process or recycled into another vinyl product.
• ALLSCO's high-tech, computer-controlled equipment optimizes cutting efficiency and minimizes waste. 
• Vinyl saves the U.S. nearly 2 trillion Btu's every year, the yearly electricity needs of 20,000 single family homes, or the equivalent of 16 million gallons of gasoline. Vinyl windows require considerably less energy to manufacture compared to kiln drying, aluminum smelting and other energy costs, 
• Your energy savings: Vinyl's excellent insulation properties and built-in insulating air spaces makes vinyl frames a formidable barrier to heat transfer. Furnaces and air conditioners work less to maintain the desired temperature.
• With double glazed, energy efficient all-vinyl windows, homeowners can save more than $30 a month during the coldest part of the winter.

SOURCES:
- Comparative Energy Evaluation of Plastic Products and Their Alternatives for the Building and Construction and Transportation Industries. Franklin Associates, Ltd. Study - 1991 Table 5, Page 8
- Fire Properties of Polyvinyl Chloride Brochure - The Vinyl Institute - 1989
- Comparative Energy Evaluation of Plastic Products and Their Alternatives for the Building and Construction and Transportation Industries. Franklin Associates, Ltd. Study - 1991 Table D-14,

Page D-18

1. ALLSCO Vinyl Windows never have to be painted. The white colour is actually part of the vinyl. 
   If the vinyl on your windows has become particularly dirty, or if they are subject to stubborn
   grime because of local conditions, a mild non-abrasive detergent solution, used with a damp cloth, will clean the vinyl.
2. Occasionally, there will be a stubborn mark on the vinyl that will resist a detergent solution.
   In such cases, cleaners like VIM® or Fantastic® are recommended.
3. The glass can be cleaned with any commercial cleaner, or vinegar and water.
4. To ensure smooth performance of your ALLSCO Windows and Doors, spray clear silicone lubricant found in most hardware stores on the operating hardware annually.

Nothing is easier. Your decision to install vinyl windows was the first way to protect your investment. Your vinyl windows never need painting. Normally, all that is required for thorough cleaning is a damp cloth. A mild non-abrasive detergent solution will clean your vinyl windows to an "as-new" condition. even if your vinyl windows have become particularly dirty.

They are the ideal, if not the only window type, to recommend in these environments.

There are two considerations: Active operation and passive operation.

Vinyl has self-lubricating properties that reduces friction and makes sliding easier. Vinyl also doesn't warp, swell, twist or distort, so it stays easy to operate.

Crack-free seams, the inert qualities and dimensional stability of vinyl, provide the advantages for its "passive" operation: glazing stays sealed, the unit is hermetic, and structural integrity is maintained.

Price varies based on style, size, features and options. Generally, vinyl windows provide superior performance for less cost than similar wood, vinyl clad wood or aluminum frame windows.

To ensure an accurate and valid comparison, read the specifications carefully to determine exactly what is included: sizes, availability, features and options.

From the heat of tropics to the chill of the Arctic, vinyl performs superbly well. Modern vinyl formulations, manufacturing processes and testing assure that vinyl windows remain impervious to weather.

Heat loss through windows is particularly reduced due to the natural insulating quality of vinyl and ALLSCO's special molding designs with insulating air spaces, thermal units and double glazing.

Modern or traditional, executive or cottage, you can enhance the look of your house, inside and out to your tastes. The added benefit is that the enhancement is long lasting, since a vinyl window will keep its "like new" appearance, with only a minimum of cleaning and care.

Government and industry have established standards for structural integrity, air infiltration resistance and water infiltration resistance. ALLSCO products are designed to withstand all climates and meet or exceed CSA CAN3 A440 standards (test results available on request).

Virtually all... Vinyl windows are available with single glazing, and double and triple insulating glass. Additional options such as tempered, frosted, decorative, stained, low E (emissivity), and wire glass are also available.

Vinyl windows propose some very different characteristics in manufacturing, performance, style and durability from other windows such as wood or metal.

Some of these differences are visibly conspicuous, others are less visible but important differences nonetheless: 

• Vinyl windows are made with vinyl frames as opposed to wood or metal.
• ALLSCO's vinyl windows are fusion welded. That makes the frame a one-piece unit: frame corners are perfect, gap-free corners that provide exceptional strength and will not "work loose" with vibration and soil settling.
• They offer several advantages over other windows because they are durable, thermally efficient and maintenance-free.
• Vinyl can be fashioned like no other window frame material can.
• Vinyl windows are unaffected by the dry/humid cycles of the seasons, by corrosive salt air and vapors from indoor swimming pools or heavy industrial areas.

Vinyl windows are available in all popular types: fixed picture windows, double and single hung, horizontal sliding, casement, awning, bay, bow and garden windows.

Most ALLSCO dealers also provide installation service. For an authorized ALLSCO dealer nearest you, please email us at marketing@allsco.com.

Yes. See below.

Architectural Doors
Doors designed for commercial and industrial applications meeting specific standards of construction (e.g. fire rating, sound transmission). Generally used to represent higher standards than residential door requirements.

Astragal
The center member of a double door, which is attached to the fixed or inactive door panel. Also prevents air infiltration.

Awning window
A window unit in which the bottom of the sash swings outward.

Bay window
A group of three windows, usually a large center unit and two side units, at 30 or 45 degree angles to the wall.

Bow window
A configuration of window units in a radial or bow formation.

Brickmould
A type of casing which frames windows and doors.

Butt Hinge
The complete door hinge mechanism: the round central part (knuckle), flat portions (leaves or flaps), and the pin, which inserts into the knuckle.

Caming
The brass dividers between glass bevels in decorative glass door inserts.

Casement window
A window unit in which the single sash cranks outward, to the right or left.

Casing
Trim molding of various widths, thickness and shapes applied to the framework of window and door units.

Check rail
On a double-hung window, the bottom rail of the upper sash and the upper rail of the lower sash, where the lock is mounted.

Circlehead
A generic term referring to any of a variety of window units with one or more curved frame members, often used over another window or door opening.

Clerestory window
A venting or fixed window above other windows or doors on an upper outside wall of a room.

Cottage double-hung
A double-hung window in which the upper sash is shorter than the lower sash.

Door Bevel
An angled cut on the lock side of a door, usually 3 degrees, that enables it to swing free of the door frame when opening and closing.

Door Core
A core placed inside the door to provide either strength or fire rating. Core types are corrugated honeycomb paper, polyurethane foam, particleboard, wood stave, and mineral fiber.

Door Frame
A complete door frame consists of two jamb legs available rabbetted (built-in stop) or with a separate stop applied (stitched) and one header, also with stop applied with staples. Once installed in the rough opening, a door may be hung on the frame.

Dormer
A space which protrudes from the roof of a house, usually including one or more windows.

Double glazing
Use of two panes of glass in a window to increase energy efficiency and provide other performance benefits.

Double-hung window
A window unit that has two operable sashes which move vertically in the frame.

Drip cap
A molding placed on the top of the head brickmold or casing of a window frame.

Dual durometer
A material that has two or more levels of flexibility.

End Rails
Rails at each end of door.

Extrusion
A form produced by forcing material through a die. ALLSCO window frames are constructed with extruded vinyl.

Fenestration
An architectural term referring to the arrangement of windows in a wall. From the Latin word, "fenestra," meaning window.

Fire Door
Fire doors are designed to meet independent testing facilities' (Underwriter's Laboratory [UL] and Warnock Hersey [WH]) standards for fire ratings 20, 30, 45, 60 and 90 minutes. The desired rating is achieved by using special door core and frame material.

Fixed
Non-venting or non-operable.

Flashing
A thin strip of metal or synthetic material that diverts water away from a window or skylight.

Frame
The enclosure in which window sash or door panels are mounted.

Glazing
Glass in a window or door; the act or process of fitting with glass.

Glazing stop
The part of the sash or door panel which holds the glass in place.

Grille
A term referring to windowpane dividers or muntins. When between two panes of glass, they will last longer and allow for ease of cleaning.

Head
The main horizontal member forming the top of the window or door frame.

Header
A horizontal framing member placed over the rough opening of a window to prevent the weight of wall or roof from resting on the window frame.

Heat Loss
The heat transmission rate multiplied by the area of the door.

Height
The vertical door dimension. Standard residential door heights are 78" to 80".

Hopper
A window unit in which the top of the sash swings inward.

Infiltration
Heat loss due to air escaping through cracks or spaces around an exterior door.

Insulating glass (IG)
A combination of two or more panes of glass with a hermetically sealed air space between the panes of glass. This space may or may not be filled with an inert gas, such as argon.

Jamb/Frame
The main vertical members forming the sides of a window or door frame. Jambs are of various widths and thickness. The most common sizes are 11/16" thick by 4-9/16" wide (for interior use).

Knocked down (KD)
Unassembled window or door unit. Pre-machined & ready-to-assemble, with a matching jamb and header.

Legs Legs
Commonly called jambs - The side pieces of the door frame running vertical.

Light
A separately framed piece of glass in a window or door. A traditional single-hung window, for instance, often has several lights divided by muntins in each sash. Such windows are described as six-over-six, eight-over-one, twelve-over-twelve, etc., to indicate the number of lights in each sash. Sometimes spelled 'lite.'

Lock Block (L.B.)
A concealed block of wood or particleboard glued inside a hollow-core door. When installing a lockset, a hole is drilled through the door faces and the lock block. It provides support for your lockset.

Low-emissivity (low-E) glass
A special type of glass having a micro thin metallic transparent material fused into its surface which acts as a thermal mirror. Low-E is highly recommended as it greatly reduces UV light while reducing energy costs.

Masonry opening
The space in a masonry wall left open for windows or door.

Mineral-core
Fire rated core of a door available in 45 min., 60 min., & 90 min. versions.

Mullion
A wood, vinyl or metal part used to structurally join two window or door units.

Muntin/Muntin Bars
Any short or light bar, either vertical or horizontal, used to separate glass in a sash into multiple lights. Also called a windowpane divider or a grille.

Nominal
A nominal dimension is the industry term used to approximate a door size.

Palladian window
A large, arch-top window flanked by smaller windows on each side.

Rail Rail
The top and bottom horizontal members of the framework of a window sash.

Raised Panel Door
A flush door using a raised door facing (slab) that has been hydraulically pressed to create a simulated raised panel design and may have either a smooth or textured finish.

Rough opening
The pre-finished framed opening in a wall into which a window or door unit is to be fitted.

R-Value
Resistance to thermal transfer or heat flow. Higher R-value numbers indicate greater insulating value.

Sash
A single assembly of stiles and rails made into a frame for holding glass.

Sidelights
Narrow fixed units mulled or joined to door units to give a more open appearance.

Sill
The main horizontal member forming the bottom of the frame of a window or door.

Single glazing
Use of single panes of glass in a window. Not as energy-efficient as double glazing.

Single-hung
A type of window in which the top sash is fixed or inoperable.

Slabs
Main surfaces of a door. ALLSCO door slabs are 24 gauge hot dipped galvanized steel faces, primed white or factory painted white and carry a 10 year  rust and corrosion resistance warranty.

Solid Core (S.C.)
Wood block, particleboard or fire-rated mineral fiber used in the core of a door. Solid Core doors are either flush or raised panel.

Stile
The main vertical members of the framework of a sash.

Stool
An interior trim piece on a window which extends the sill and acts as a narrow shelf.  

Stop
A molding used to hold, position or separate window parts; wood or metal strip attached to jambs and header, with or without for and to keep door from swinging through.

Tempered glass
Glass manufactured to withstand greater than normal forces on its surface. When it breaks, it shatters into small pieces to reduce hazard. Standard on all ALLSCO patio doors.

Thermal break
The addition of a thermal insulating material between two thermally conductive materials.

Thickness
The depth dimension of a door. Standard residential door thicknesses are 1-3/8" and 1-3/4".

Transom
A small window that fits over the top of a door or window, primarily for additional light and aesthetic value.

True divided light
Windows in which multiple individual panes of glass or lights are assembled in the sash using muntins.

U-value
Rate of heat flow-value through the complete heat barrier, from room air to outside air. The lower the U-value, the better the insulating value.

Vent Unit
A window or door unit that opens or operates.

Vinyl (PVC)
A thermally efficient, long lasting, structurally sound material used by ALLSCO to make window and door frames.

Weather-stripping
A material or device used to seal the openings, gaps or cracks of venting window and door units to prevent water and air infiltration.

Width
The horizontal door dimension. Standard residential door widths range from 30" to 36".

Wind load
Force exerted on a surface by moving air.

Yard 
An imperial unit of measurement equal to 36".

Zero Clearance
A door with zero clearance refers to an installation problem when a pre-hung door cannot be installed to operate properly.

1. Apply two beads of adhesive type caulking on sill opening. If vinyl jamb-apply a bead of caulking to nailing flange.
2. Set entrance system in opening sill first.
3. Center frame in opening. Plumb hinge side with a level and tack outside casing in place. If vinyl jamb tack nailing flange-hinge side only.
4. Disengage shipping clip at lockset location to allow the door to open. Install two 2 1/2 " wood screws (supplied) in the top hinge. These must engage the stud in order to support the weight of the door slab.
5. Check for even margins between top of door and head jamb. Make necessary adjustments to ensure proper seal of weather-strip down the entire length of the door. Should the wall be out of plumb, it may be necessary to install a spacer shim under the outside casing. Shimming at the top will make the bottom contact and vice versa.
6. Place shims between jamb and studding behind each hinge and lock location. Check all around door for even margins (1/8) between door slab and frame.
7. After a final check to make sure door and frame are lined up properly, complete tacking the casing and side jambs. Add two 2 1/2 wood screws to the centre and bottom hinges (supplied) if vinyl jamb-finish tacking nailing flange and use 2 1/2" wood screws (not supplied) through jamb at pre-drilled locations. When that is complete install vinyl covers over screw tracks (supplied).

PROTECT YOUR GUARANTEE 
READ AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW

IMPORTANT

1. Before installation, be sure window is closed and locked.
2. For new construction, caulk area where either the nailing flange or window jamb meets the exterior finish material.
3. For proper operation and performance, it is important that there be clearance of approximately 3/8" on sides and 1/2" on top between the window and the rough stud opening.
4. Window must be installed-
   (A) Plumb
   (B) Level
   (C) Square
   (D) Shimmed
5. Insure that window is shimmed under casement and awning hardware.
6. Secure window in opening by fastening nailing flange and by using 2 1/2" wood screws through side jamb into stud at shimmed locations.
7. Install insulation between jamb and framing. Use only enough insulation to loosely fill the opening. Packing too much insulation may distort the frame member.
8. For smooth performance of the operating sash, the keepers will need necessary adjustments. Also apply silicone spray to operating hardware.

PROTECT YOUR GUARANTEE 
READ AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW

IMPORTANT

1. Before installation, be sure window is closed and locked.
2. For new construction, caulk area where either the nailing flange or window jamb meets the exterior finish material.
3. For proper operation and performance, it is important that there be clearance of approximately 3/8" on sides and 1/2" on top between the window and the rough stud opening.
4. Window must be installed-
   (A) Plumb
   (B) Level
   (C) Square
   (D) Shimmed
5. Secure window in opening by fastening nailing flange and by using 2 1/2" wood screws through side jamb into stud at top and bottom shimmed locations.
6. Install insulation between jamb and framing. Use only enough insulation to loosely fill the opening. Packing too much insulation may distort the frame member.
7. For smooth performance of the operating sash, apply silicone spray to the side tracks.